Mongolia - Sunrise to Sunset

I traveled to Lake Hovsgol in northern Mongolia this past week for the Sunrise to Sunset Marathon.

Mongolia is becoming a regular destination for me. While some people summer in normal places like Maine or Tuscany, I seem compelled to deal with the long jeep rides and yak milk of Mongolia. This is partly due to the fact that the stunning wide open spaces of Mongolia are a perfect antidote to the concrete and clutter of Tokyo. Also Sunrise to Sunset is considered one of the most unique and well-organized adventure runs in the world. And also I was able to journey from Narita to Ulanbaatar for a mere 20,000 award miles.

Sunrise to Sunset is held at a Ger Camp along the shore of Lake Hovsgol. Lake Hovsgol is touted as one of the most unique locations in the world - however upon arrival it struck me as identical to the lakes near Seattle (and my teammate Isobel says it looks exactly like Lake Taupo, New Zealand). Identical that is other than the Gers (or yurts) - the portable, felt-covered tents used by the nomadic people of central Asia. The Gers are really quite comfortable with softbeds and woodstoves to keep us warm at night

I "only" run the 42k marathon event. I say "only" because half of the participants are doing 100k. At least 8 ultra-marathoners urge me to do the whole 100k and I find myself actually considering this. But then I snap back to reality - even 42k is longer than my average weekly running mileage over the past 4 months. Anyway I am not equipped for 100k. I am hardly equipped for 42k. The organizers are a bit dismayed by my lack of water and warm clothing. But I have a compass, an iodine tablet, a caffeine tablet, a Platypus waterbag, and a couple Power Gels so I feel prepared to survive if I wander off course and cross the border into Russian Siberia.

The race starts in total darkness at 4am and I quickly do wander off course. Fortunately the sun soon rises and the route is quite well marked and I do not lose much time. I had been a bit caught by surprise at the start. Apparently I should have expected that the Swiss organizers would start on schedule, even if half the participants are still milling around. My slow start and strategy to take regular walk breaks early, means that I am still near the back of the field after the first few kilometers. Then over the next 20k I steadily pass almost the entire field. It is interesting to strike up conversations with the other runners, all of whom are in high spirits at this early stage in the race. From 21k on though I do not see any other runners.

It is at around 21k that I decide breaking 5 hours will be a worthy goal. But clambering through underbrush over the course's second big hill (from 28k to 32k) sucks up a lot of time and I hit 32k in a few minutes over 4 hours. I do not wish to trash my legs, but I am determined to break 5 hours and run most all of the last 10k to finish in roughly 4:59. At the finish I learn that a young Mongolian runner finished ahead of me, so I am second overall and am the first veteran finisher in the 42k. Remarkably though, two 100k runners had reached the 42k mark ahead of me. The other remarkable thing is how 42k does seem like a rather short day after running with all the 100k competitors - 42k seems almost inadequate at the time - like something to apologize about.

But I am glad to save my legs -- and still experience Sunrise to Sunset. The experience of staying at the Ger Camp with 100 ultra-marathoners from Mongolia and from all over the world and then the shared experience of doing the race is extremely rewarding.

During our fabulous 2.5-day journey back to UlanBatar across the rolling green steppes of central Mongolia, Gary and Isobel and I discuss plans for next marathon - the Sahara Marathon.