Training in Laos (3)

The global credit crisis has made it more difficult to support the high cost of training in Tokyo. Several other triathlete friends are thinking of relocating to Laos where we can survive on less than US$10 per day.

The biking is a bit rougher, so we need to re-focus a bit on competing in the Xterra type events which entail mountain biking and trail running. I managed to find some good cycling and hiking routes along the Mekong and was able to begin preparation for the Saipan and Ome-Takamizu events in the Spring.

Triathlon Training in Laos (2)

Vang Vieng proves to be another fine city for triathlon training. I plunge into the scenic Nam Song river for swim training and the water appears clean and free of snakes, piranhas and villagers doing laundry. In fact the only real hazard is dodging the flying drunken bodies. A third of the way into my swim I round a bend and come upon the most surreal site -- an enormous and elaborate deck bar perched above the river with a huge slide and rope swing and hundreds of inebriated, bikini-clad Australian and European young woman swaying to blaring Laotian pop music - it reminds me of the Suzie Q entertainment scene in the movie Apocalypse Now. As always I stay focused on my swim technique.

The next morning at dawn I run up in the limestone hills surrounding the town Most travelers take the jarring, spine-crushing trucks to explore the caves. Running is much more easy and sublime - especially at this hour when it is just me and a few cows and villagers.

Running in Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang proves to be a fine city for triathlon training. This is especially true if you wake at 6am for 12k run along the Mekong river and around the historical former capital of Laos. The best thing about running so early is stumbling onto the quintessential Luang Prabang experience: the procession of saffron-robed monks collecting alms from the townspeople lining the street. It was quite magical to accidently discover this on a quiet edge of town. I try to be respectful and try not to gawk too much at the monks. Upon reaching the center of town the alms-giving process deteriorates into a tourist spectacle with throngs of westerners with cameras and local vendors.

Okutama Ekiden

I reluctantly agree to participate in the Okutama Ekiden this past Sunday. Reluctantly because of the logistic challenges of the traditional ekiden - a running relay with individual legs from train station to train station.

These logistics require that each team member carry the warm clothes to change into for the runner handing off to him. Of course I am late and screw everything up. So I need to run well to redeem myself. I manage 29:30 on the downhill 8.5k anchor leg and pass 7 other teams. Everyone is delighted and says this is a good performance.

And in the end it seems very much worth the time and effort to enjoy the highly traditional and scenic Okutama Ekiden.

.

Mr. Donut

- I manage a 36:22 10k at Ohtawara last Sunday despite my feeble mileage.












- Solette, Staffan, and Mary from the US all are captivated by the unique Japanese running experience













- In the end it is all about coffee and honey-dips at Mr. Donut

Fast Seattle Women

I wished to get in at least one quality training session during my 3 weeks in the US.  So last night I returned to Seattle's Green Lake track to run with the unfriendly running club mentioned in my June 28 post.  

The group may not offer a warm welcome, but they certainly provide a rigorous workout:

4x1000 at 3:25 with a mere 60-second rest, then after a brisk 10 minute run we launched into 4x400 in 77, 75, 73 and finally a blowout 69-seconds.

I was roughly in the middle of the group of about 30 runners.  Maybe that is not surprising.  But get this - running right around me (and ahead of me) were 7-8 women, several around 40 years old.  So much for my dismissing all American woman runners as overweight, 7-hour marathoners carrying balloons and raising money for charities. The woman next to me, Susan, was 39-years old and had run a 2;47 marathon last year.  

Edogawa 10k

I participated in the Edogawa 10k yesterday, an event I have enjoyed in the past for its convenient location, elaborate award ceremony, festive post-race lunch and casual ambiance. Problem was that this year I was absurdly over-confident about running a good time going into the run.

At least through the first 4 kilometers I did feel reasonably OK - maintaining a steady 3:33 pace. But I found myself increasingly worried to be so winded and also to find myself ahead of faster teammate Gerard. I kept thinking that surely I should be able to run a pace significantly faster than the 36:48 10k portion of the Murakami Triathlon. But this proved to be wishful thinking.

I faded dramatically over the last half of the race and was clocked in 36:32.

Of course I could still enjoy the elaborate award ceremony. Here are pictures of me struggling to follow the proper marching and bowing rituals and receiving an incredibly heavy bronze medal for my 3rd place age-group finish. Naturally I am thinking to melt the medal down and sell the bronze to pay for food given my precarious financial situation now that all my projects are losing their financing.

Murakami Triathlon

I am astonished to run 36:48 for the 10k run portion of the Murakami Triathlon Sunday. I am astonished I could run 36:48 at all, let alone after pushing through a 72-minute 40k ride. So despite the fact that stormy weather forced the cancellation of the swim portion of the event, my second triathlon event of 2008 proved another fine adventure.

When we arrived in Murakami on Saturday we were met by fierce winds blowing in from Siberia and huge foaming breakers crashing on the beach. Since I have been laser-focused on swimming this summer I was disappointed when the officials replaced the swim with a 1k beach run in heavy sand to start the event.

As usual I was unorganized during the final hour before the triathlon start. I felt reluctant to take my bike to the official race bike mechanic knowing I would be met with scorn and disgust, but I am so clueless about bike mechanics and could not get my front wheel to spin true. Sure enough the bike doctor was shocked and horrified by all the rust and neglect. I could not understand most of his grumbling in Japanese as he struggled with my bike, but what I picked up on was clearly shock and disdain: "hidoi, maintenance wa dame desu, toriazu shoganai..." I had pinched my front brake cable when I reattached my aero bars and lost various bolts and my front spokes were completely rusted, but thanks to the last second adjustments it appeared that my bike could survive another event.

When the starting gun went off I high-stepped through the sand as best I could, entering the bike transition zone about 10-seconds ahead of most of my teammates. But alas they overtook me right away, despite all my effort to prepare and focus on a fast transition.

The 40k ride along the Sea of Japan coastline was scenic with the huge waves breaking on the rocky shore. I rode well - my approximate time of 1:12 is a PB for this distance though I struggled a bit in some wind after the turnaround and during a short downpour toward the end of the ride.

Perhaps I slacked off a bit on the bike to save strength for the run, but I think I pushed pretty hard and my thighs felt sore when I dashed out of the second transition zone. And yet the bike ride did not seem to slow my run down at all. I felt like I was moving fast and this was confirmed when I saw my 2k split of 7:15. I passed Phil Ryan around 3k and he told me Anthony was just up ahead which further emboldened me. I hoped to finish ahead of the upstart Anthony who has just started doing triathlons this year, but who is clearly a natural talent. I finally managed to pass Anthony at about 7k as I maintained a steady 3:40 per kilometer pace to the finish.

My effort was good for 3rd place out of 49 runners in my division.

Murakami Triathlon Preparation

I have been thinking I should change the blog's subtitle to "NOT training for a triathlon in Tokyo" or most accurately "Complaining about bicycling in Tokyo"

As is so often the case over the last several years, I have a whole litany of complaints about cycling training.

I had hoped to do at least a half-dozen good rides leading up to Sunday's Murakami Triathlon.  But then a bizarre series of flat tire problems eliminated 3 crucial rides.  Of course these flat tire problems were largely a result of my own neglect and my ineptitude with mounting the tube properly and starting my rides so late in the day.

I was thinking I was swimming and running reasonably well, but this is meaningless when your bike leg is slow and your legs are shot after the bike.

Beijing Olympics 5

It is my last night in Beijing and naturally I am compelled to experience another track and field session.  So I wade into the throngs of ticket scalpers lined up outside the Olympic Village entrance and spot a young Chinese holding a ticket for that night.  When I try to begin negotiating he frantically gestures for me to follow him and leads me to a nearby building entrance.  Apparently the Chinese authorities are still frowning on this market clearing mechanism.  The young seller types out his asking price of 1500 yuan (US$215) on his cell phone. I point to my watch to indicate the fact the session is already starting and offer 200 yuan.  I am a bit surprised when he indignantly marches off, and I grow concerned as I walk along the gate and all the tickets held up for offer are for events on later days.  Then a burly Australian walks up beside me, asks if I need tickets, and asks 700 yuan.  I respond that I can pay half that and I discretely slip him cash as we stride past the Chinese security forces and chat about US hopes against the Jamaicans.  It is a win-win transaction; the Australian is no doubt delighted to unload his ticket at the last second at 350 (50 yuan below the face value) and I am delighted to get back in the Birds Nest.

One of the really great things about attending these international events is the camaraderie with fans from all over the world.  I find myself sitting next to Ivan, a young 800-meter junior champion from Ukraine and a boisterous group of Estonians.  They are all so extremely excited to learn I am from the US and they hug me with joy when Americans Dawn Harper and Jeremy Wariner win their respective races and try to console me when the British sprinter overtakes Sanya Richards in the 400.  Of course we all go crazy when Estonia wins the discus throw.

One other thing that just does not come through on TV is the emotional power of the medal award ceremonies.  When everything else at the track stopped and 90,000 fans rose for the New Zealand national anthem for the woman's shot put gold medalist on Sunday both Christian and I were deeply moved.  For New Zealand!  For the woman's shot put!  an event we had not even seen or even thought about prior to that moment.

Beijing Olympics 4

I attend the Athletics competition at the Birds Nest Sunday night. It is amazing to actually be at the Olympics. I feel goose bumps when we came out of the subway and in the distance I catch sight of the huge Olympic torch in the distance.

Only ticket-holders can go through wide perimeter security tents to get into the main Olympic Village. It is like entering a magical new world. Granted it is a bit of a corporate sponsor world with numerous Coca-Cola and McDonalds kiosks, Visa ATMs, and Bank of China VIP tents.

As amazing as the competition is, the architecture may be more memorable for me. It is breathtaking to see from different angles. Christian and I cannot stop take pictures in front of the Birds Nest and Water Cube. Most of the other 100,000 spectators are also posing in front of the stadiums as well.

The restrooms are hidden, the concourses are long and steep, the concession lines slow, but none of this detracts much from the magic of being at Olympics.

Beijing Olympics 3

Naturally I was concerned about the air quality in China. For months I have heard so much about the stifling humidity and choking smog, and  the risk of black lung I faced by running during my Olympic trip.

 

But I run with teammate Chuck in Shanghai and smog is not an issue.  (avoiding getting hit by lightning was more of an issue).

 

Then in Beijing the sky is blue and I can see mountains clearly in the distance.  Christian and I do 12k around the Summer Palace Grounds and the air is fine and I hardly break a sweat in the cool comfortable weather.

Beijing Olympics 2

Everywhere I go in China (restaurants, convenient stores, getting my hair cut)  I see televisions showing Olympic coverage.  Everywhere I see the One World One Dream logo. And everywhere, everywhere I see the country medal standings.  I thought tabulating national medal counts was counter to the Olympic spirit and was actively discouraged?  But the medal counts scroll across the bottom of every Chinese broadcast 24x7.  

 

Not that I watch Chinese Olympic coverage.   Strangely I come to the Olympics in China and find myself watching coverage from the Philippines.  Which is ideal.  The Philippines have relatively fewer athletes competing and so the coverage is remarkably broad and unbiased (and in English).     

Beijing Olympics - 1

Who needs to go to Seattle in August to escape the heat when you can summer in the Chinese coastal city of Dalian.  I arrive to blue skies and cool crisp temperatures.  The US Olympic track team is staying here during the games as well to minimize their time in Beijing smog. 

 

My one-year Chinese multi-entry visa was still valid , otherwise I probably would not have made it here since the Chinese government has been limiting "undesirables" like myself from getting visas during the Olympics.   Amazingly I was able to travel to China during the Games using 20,000 airline award miles and the hotels are reasonably priced since no one can get in the country.   

 

I enjoy several long runs through the hills and coastline of Dalian, but unfortunately I have yet to see Lagat running through the city parks or eating at the seafood restaurants. 

Kamakura Shakado/Hokokuji Route

Here is a map (courtesy of Joachim) of a 9km route through the quiet neighborhoods and hilly hiking trails of eastern Kamakura where Joachim, Mark, Ami and I ran several weeks ago.

This loop is an interesting variation on the normal counter-clockwise route I normally lead
around the circumference of Kamakura. There is very little overlap between the two routes other than the waterfront section.

This Eastern loop takes us through the remarkable Shakado pass which dates back centuries, past the Hokokuji temple and then along a densely forested ridge extending south to the Zushi Marina and the sea.

Fuji Mountain Climbing Race

Last Friday I participated in one of the quintessential Japan running experiences - the Fuji Tozan climbing race.  By the time I learned about the registration it was too late to enter the climb to the summit and I settled for the run to the 5th station. The Summit Race is 21 km with an elevation gain of 3,000 meters, and the 5th station race is 15km with an elevation gain of 1,480 meters.  I was pleased to be forced to select the easier event - the 5th station race is more of a running endeavor (as opposed to a climbing/crawling, oxygen deprivation experience), and the summit race requires scrambling back down a long painful trail. 

But when we arrived in the town of Fuji-Yoshida at the base of the mountain and I looked up at the awe-inspiring site of Mount Fuji looming above us - I could not help but feel that strange compulsion to make it to the top.  I felt that even more so at the starting line with the 

The cutoff times for Fuji Tozan are absurdly strict - for the Summit Race you must reach the 8th station within 4 hours.  More than half the entrants are cruelly turned back after climbing for 19km - and runners who make it to the finish are considered conquering heroes. 

I ran reasonably well - finishing the 15k course in 1:40:46 which was good for 21st among the 480 finishers in the 5th station event. 

I went out easy on the course's flat section (all 500 meters of it) from the starting line at Fuji-Yoshida city hall to the first turn.  Then as we begun the relentless climb, I started to steadily pass people.  Fortunately much of the first 11km is on a smooth paved road where we enjoyed shade and splendid scenery.  

I managed to get into a nice running rhythm despite the elevation gain.  I did have to fight back negative, panicky feelings ("if I feel bad, now just wait until we really start to climb later"). Fortunately the Fuji Tozan 5th station race does not  torture us with the ever-increasing  steepness of  Ohyama Tozama -- a race which I have done 3 times and which haunted me throughout.  

The first water stop was 35 minutes into the race at which point dehydration was taking a toll.  The water and cafe latte gel I carried gave me renewed strength and I passed Jin at this point. I thought I might keep only passing runners all the way to the top, but then when we reached Umagaeshi at 11km, the course becomes steeper and the terrain more uneven, and suddenly a series of gaunt, elderly men begun to scamper by me.  It seemed apparent to me that these guys were a different breed of hill climbing runners and that they lived to climb these steep rugged slopes.
  
I reached a 13km marker at 1:15 on my watch and thought I might break 1:30.  I begun to walk on steeper sections where I felt that little extra time could be gained by running.  I was surprised that it took so long to get to the finish but felt pretty strong as we crossed the finish.  

Now I feel I must do the Fuji Summit Race some day. I think I would be relatively less competitive at the summit event, but who cares - the challenge and uniqueness are compelling.

Kamakura 5k Open Water Swim Report

I complete my first open-water swim event on Saturday in Kamakura - swimming 5 kilometers in exactly 90 minutes.

One of my goals for 2008 was to compete in a pure swim event - partly because it would encourage me to improve my swimming for the triathlon, but more importantly because it struck me as an interesting new challenge in itself.

I was mentally prepared to finish dead last among a group of muscular, former lifeguards, water polo players and collegiate swim champions. However upon arriving at the beach I immediately struck up a conversation with a fellow competitor - a slight, older Japanese triathlete who told me he had been running for years and the swim was his weakness. I managed to bite my tongue and avoid saying I was of the same type.

Two-hundred competitors lined up for a beach start - a start that was remarkably relaxed compared to the frenzied thrashing starts at triathlons. Most of the field, including myself, waded out into the ocean at a leisurely pace - seemingly in no hurry to actually start swimming. I found plenty of room on the outside and launched into a smooth pace - trying to avoid the numerous jellyfish blobs. The first half of the first of the three 1600 meter loops seemed to take forever - 18 minutes to 850 meter mark. After that I got progressively faster and passed other swimmers most of the way.

A boat at the turnaround buoy handed us water and some strange food-like substance that tasted very good after all the ocean water. I was a bit dehydrated in my wetsuit on the 28 degree morning, and these water stops saved me. I also ate my Cafe Latte Power Gel at the halfway mark which also seemed to help.

The other swimmers seemed to emerge on the shallow beach at the same leisurely pace we entered the water. However hoping to hit 90 minutes and being more of a land animal, I furiously porpoised through the shallow water and sprinted up the beach to the finish.
My time of 1:30:00 is much faster than my 1:27 for 3.8k at Ironman. I place a respectable 105th out of approximately 200 total participants.

Later in the afternoon along with teammates, Dave Sims and Oleg from our Tokyo International Waters Swim Club, I participated in a 3x750-meter relay. We finished 10th out of 41 teams. Unlike the 5k I entered the water at a full sprint after taking the wristband from Dave, and I found myself gasping for breath on every stroke for much of my leg. My pace was slower than in the 5k, partly because of the overly fast start and partly perhaps because of fatigue from the 5k.

Remarkably though, two day later I feel very little soreness and fatigue from the longest swim day of my life.

I have no intention to abandon running and cycling and devote my life to open-water swim, but I had a blast on Saturday and look forward to doing another open-water swim event next summer.

Countdown to 5k Open Water Swim

Only 16 hours until my swim marathon.   I feel increasingly anxious - but this anxiety could be caused by other things in my life.  Anyway I need to focus on keeping my stroke smooth and long and consistent tomorrow. 

I anticipate swimming for up to 2 hours - a long time to be working in the open seas.  My rule in running/triathlon events is to eat every 30-minutes on any endurance event over 60-minutes.  So I am thinking to tuck a gel or two inside my wetsuit.  I have not practiced doing this, so I have no idea if eating in the middle of the swim will be do-able. 

As is often before a big event I find myself thinking - "I really should have done one more real long training swim..."

My race goal?  Really just to finish and have fun.  I have been averaging 2:00 on 100 meters in pool for 20 reps, but when I get out in the open water the workouts do not seem as relevant.

My other goal - not to make excuses and tell other participants "I am not really a swimmer".  Tomorrow I am a swimmer.

Takamizu trail run

My teammate Gerard tells me what a fine job I do not over-training.

Ironically he is telling me this as we race up the side of Mount Takamizu - a 30k trail run (about my average weekly mileage) with over a 1,000 meters of elevation gain, on a day when I have had little sleep, the weather is terribly humid and I am carrying no water.

I felt reasonably strong through about 22 kilometers of the run, but at this point we begun to climb the last big uphill and for the next 8 kilometers I staggered along in an exhausted, dehydrated daze.

So much for not over-training.

Shore Run

At the last second I decide to enter the 6.7 mile Shore Run on Sunday in Seattle.  It is a splendid weather, a scenic course, a good cause, and unlike at the Seattle track workout everyone seems friendly.  

I had been feeling strong on my runs in Tokyo and went out ridiculously fast - 5:32 for the first mile.  (Whatever a mile is.  I didn't realize miles were still used to measure running events and miles no longer means anything to me.)  

Anyway this pace is unsustainable - my second mile is 5:40, my third is 6 minutes and then we start climbing some hills, I am feeling terrible in so many ways, and 3 women pass me in succession.    The third lady to pass me is a woman I had chatted with before the race who looks very much like the actress Sarah Jessica Parker and (naturally) I make an effort to keep up with her.

As we approach the finish line I start to feel a bit stronger again.  I briefly consider kicking past "Sarah Jessica" but I think to myself that I already look bad enough and I will really look like a dick if I start sprinting to the finish.  So I cruise across the line in a time of 41:38.

Fortunately I still manage to finish first in my age division and 9th overall out of 540 runners, and win various prizes.  God bless America - the running events are much less competitive. 

All the local Seattle people are carrying on about how incredibly hot they think it is (about 25 degrees), and I feel like saying this weather is nothing compared to China IM or Suzu or Obuse, etc. but I bite my tongue.  Still it is hot enough that I jump in the adjacent Lake Washington after the race.  I seem to be the only runner that feels compelled to enjoy a swim in the lovely lake (I need training for Kamakura Swim) and to take advantage of the lakeside showers for shampooing and bathing.  Running in Japan has conditioned me for public bathing (and this is good practice in case I become a homeless person). 

Track workout in Seattle

I join a group of 50 serious Seattle runners at a track near Green Lake last night.   Having done workouts with groups in the past year in Singapore, NYC, HK, San Francisco, and Tokyo I was interested to see what the group from my hometown would be like.  And I found this club was definitely different - 

1. Faster runners -  We did 6 x1000 and I slotted in with the B group.  The four college aged guys in the A group averaged 3:05 per 1k.  The five guys in my B group averaged 3:14 and I struggled to keep up.  I needed to hit the restroom and missed the 5th interval and I could sense the rest of group B thinking that this guy just doesn't have what it takes.

2. Worst facilities - Considering Seattle is one of the wealthiest cities on the planet, it is shocking to experience the Green Lake track - more like one would expect in the developing world - a rutty, four-lane dirt track with dust blowing in from the interior soccer field.

3. Less friendly to newcomers - This group has to rank among the most unwelcoming, cliquish collection of people I have ever encountered.   Not only did no one make any effort to say hello, my efforts at conversation were met with cursory monosyllable replies.  There was no introduction of new people and rather than a post-workout group dinner  people went off together in small clusters.  I had observed how clannish and aloof Seattle people can be during numerous visits to my hometown since leaving for college two decades ago.   I guess like the city of Seattle itself, the Green Lake track is perceived as already full, and newcomers are simply not welcome.  I was just another outsider fresh off the boat further clogging up their city.  I thought about calling attention to my deep roots in Seattle but it didn't seem worth the effort.   

Laser focus on swimming - 2

My swimming mileage is at all time high - not that I have ever really tracked it before but I am sure the last month is an all time high.  Until early March I had been doing 1-2 short, easy workouts on my own each week - so a weekly average of about 75 minutes and 3 kilometers.  Since then I have been doing drills with swim squad and doing more mileage on my own:

Week/#swims/duration/distance 

Mar  9 -  3x, 1:30, 3.7k
Mar  16- 4x, 2:30, 6.0k
Mar 23 - 2x, 1:45, 4.5k

Mar 30 - 3x, 2:45, 6.5k
April 6  - 2x, 1:30, 4.0k
April 13 - 1x, 0:45, 2.0k
April 20 - 3x, 1:45, 5.0k
April 27 - 3x, 2:15, 6.0k
May  4 -  4x,  2:45, 7.0k
May 11 - 2x, 1:45, 5.0k
May 18 - 2x, 1:30, 5.5k
May 25 - 4x, 3:15, 8.0k
June 1 -  3x, 2:50, 7.5k
June 8 -  3x, 3:25, 8.5k
June 15- 3x, 3:00, 8.0k

More on Nutrition/Caffeine

This morning Anthony sends me this article on nutrition to maximize performance and recovery.

So the jury is still out on carbohydrate and protein intake immediately after workouts (though I will still eat my Cliff Bar - I mean why not?)

So WHAT does the latest research recommend we consume after workouts? Yes, you guessed it, our favorite substance - caffeine. Once again the lab rats and test subjects have outperformed and more quickly recovered when loaded up on coffee. So before, during, and AFTER the race and hard workouts we should be hitting Tullys.

They say that people will seek out information that is consistent with what they want to believe. So readers of this blog might assume I am just desperately trying to justify all the coffee swilling and caffeine addiction whatever way I can. But I swear I keep stumbling on these positive remarks about caffeine (and nothing that says it is slowing me down).

Here is mileage to date for 2008.
I can't figure out why I am running faster than last year given my lower mileage. Maybe less cycling? more swimming? better nutrition? more caffeine?


">

Tuesday, June 03, 2008

30-45 minute window

Our teammate Motozo left the pool last Thursday with ankle soreness and Keren and Mary and I shouted advice: "R.I.C.E., - rest, ice, compression, elevation. Take some ibuprofen, get a massage..".

But according to the recent research we should have been shouting at Motozo to quickly grab a yogurt smoothie.

Ingesting protein and carbohydrate within 30-45 minutes of exercise-induced muscle damage is apparently critical to taking advantage of the higher insulin level in the blood caused by the exercise. This "insulin response" causes your muscles to absorb more fuel (glucose) and rebuild - which is the whole point of training. Once the 30-45 minute window passes your body's ability to replenish fuel drops dramatically.

This is consistent with what I have been reading for several years, but the "energy drinks" that are available and we consume after workouts seem to be watery, sugary concoctions that taste good and quench our thirst but are grossly inadequate for providing the protein requirements for recovery? I am curious if there is anything I can buy out of a vending machine in Tokyo to adequately replenish carbohydrates and protein?

5k Time Trial - 17:14

My teammate Yoshida-san announces that he hopes to break 17 minutes at last night's monthly running time trial, and I reluctantly stick with him despite this overly ambitious pace (for me).  I need someone to establish a pace or else I will indulge in an easy jog, and I seek to stay ahead of the rapidly improving Paddy, the Irish Wonder. 

Thanks to Yoshida-san I run 3:22, 3:25, 3:29, 3:32, 3:26 (kicking past Yoshida-san with 700 meters to go) for a 17:14, my fastest 5k in about 5 years.  

Laser focused on open water swim race

Only 7 weeks until I compete in the 5,000 meter open swim race in the tumultuous seas off Kamakura.  So I am focusing my energy on preparing for this epic event. 

This past weekend I joined Anthony, Keren, Mary and David at Hakkejima and swam some 3 kilometers, my longest swim since ironman two years ago.  I swallowed a lot of saltwater, my goggles leaked irritating my left eye, and my wetsuit scratched up my neck.  But covering 3k made me feel better about my chances of surviving the 5k swim in July.  

Sagamiko to Yamanakako

I have long heard glowing accounts of the cycling route from Lake Sagami to Lake Yamanaka through the mountains west of Tokyo.  Last Saturday I finally did the 115 kilometer up-and-back ride along with Chris, Fabien, Adam, Mika and Keren.

The route was even more scenic than I expected, with lush green hillsides soaring around us.  Even on a day when Mount Fuji was largely shrouded in clouds the course was stunning.  From Sagamiko the course climbs gradually for about 45k then rises sharply for about 5k before dropping down to Yamanakako.   We did one loop around the lake before returning.  The ride took about 6 hours including several long stops.   

I highly recommend the route.  By catching the Chuo special express, Chris and I made it from Roppongi to Sagamiko in less than 90 minutes.  According to Chris there is significantly less traffic on Sunday and weekday mornings.

Fuji Susono Half-Marathon

On Sunday I ran a 1:20:18 half-marathon near Mount Fuji. It was wonderfully cool weather (11 degrees) after the wretched death slog in the 35 degree heat at China Ironman.

I stayed behind my ultra-marathon teammate Yoshida-san for the first 5k and when I heard our split of 21:45 I was not optimistic about my ultimate finishing time. Thanks to Yoshida-san's comfortable pace, the long uphill climb on the first 5k did not actually seem so difficult to me. So when we got to top of the hill I accelerated, running 18:54 for my second 5k. I pulled within about 20 seconds of younger, faster teammate Gerard and was pulled along by my effort to keep him in sight.
At 14k I started to weaken a bit. This is usually when a half-marathon starts to get painful for me. But here is the wonderful thing about the Fuji-Susono course: since the last 4.5k is downhill, I merely needed to survive until about 16.5k and then I could cruise. And cruise I did -covering the last 5k in approximately 16:30. I have always assumed that you cannot make up time on the downhill that you had lost because of running slower on the uphill, but somehow at Fuji-Susono I did make up lost time (even though I do not consider myself a strong runner on downhills). I finished 4th in 40-49 division.

Needless to say, I would have liked to break 1:20, but given training and conditions I was delighted with my race. My time was very similar to my Tokyo (half) Marathon time in February - in both cases I started out at a slow pace and enjoyed a relatively comfortable run. The shift to more bicycle and swim training over the past few months did not seem to slow me down.

Ironman China 2

Still admiring the coconut prize a week after IM China. It is more impressive than my times. Given the variables in a triathlon it is more difficult to compare performances than in say a 5k track run. I am convinced IM China was my best triathlon to date.

Questions:
1. Was is it the heat or the bike ride that killed me on the run?
2. Was the swim really 1.8k as other swimmers claim?
3. Would my friend from SVTC have lasted 100 meters if he wore his "Free Tibet" shirt?
4. Where on earth can I find a half-ironman that is not so absurdly hot on the run?

Half-Ironman seem inherently hot because the run starts at mid-day in places warm enough to attract people to an open water swim. I would gladly trade off a few minutes of shivering during body marking on a cold morning in exchange for hours of cooler weather all afternoon (but I seem to the exception in this respect). I also kept suggesting to everyone I saw at Ironman China that they start the half-ironman at 2pm and finish under the lights rather than start us at 9am. But I only get blank stares in reply. Teammates Keren, Mika, and Michael are all planning to Singapore 70.3 in September, but I would rather do almost any other event - even Escape from Alcatraz where I could count on the cold summer weather in San Francisco.

Ironman China Report

Wow - I actually won an award in a triathlon - a coconut trophy. I am so pleased - I feel like when I won a blue ribbon at field day in elementary school. I have won trophies in running events, but never expected to finish above the middle of the pack in a triathlon. Somehow I managed to capture 3rd of about 20 guys in the 45-49 division.

My swim was really solid. I swam straight, had few collisions, and was generally able to concentrate on my stroke. I was even first out of the water among the Nambanners in a time of 30 minutes 42 seconds (the course was short - call it 1500 meters? - maybe a bit more).

My bike was close to my most optimistic goal time as well - 3:06:42 - I maintained my target of 30k per hour on the flat stretches despite limited training.

The amazing thing is that I placed so well despite the fact I was not able to even run effectively. I decided right at the start of the run I was going to have to walk early and often. For the first 8k I managed to run for 4 minutes and walk for 30 seconds, but by the bridge at 14k I was walking more than I was running. I was a bit concerned about heat exhaustion (my friend Kyle from Silicon Valley Triathlon Club collapsed and had to get an IV during the race -- he still managed to finish). When teammate Mika Kume blew past me on the uphill section of the bridge and exhorted me to run with her, I just smiled and kept walking. My run time was 1:59:42 and overall time was 5 hours 45 minutes and 27 seconds.

Running in the heat was pure misery, but overall I was delighted with Ironman China experience, more happy it seems than most of my teammates. The bike course took us through the narrow streets of a traditional Chinese village packed with villagers screaming "Go Go Jia Yo!" and out into countryside past water buffalo and throngs of baffled farmers and coconut plantations. I would imagine most of the participants would have been happy to keep the course on the flatter, faster highway but I am glad the organizers took us through the village. The event was well organized for a first time organization.

More later

Caffeine Taper 3

..Not that my bike training for China Ironman is the important thing.  What really matters is the caffeine taper. 

And I did it!   I made it through a whole day with no caffeine.  

After six weeks on only 100 milligrams of caffeine per day, I inadvertently made it through yesterday with only minimal withdrawal effects.  Now we will see how the 700 milligram caffeine loading helps next Sunday.    

Ironman China Training

Here is my triathlong training (weekly hours being the best proxy for triathlon training):



Swim - Half dozen solid workouts along with my easy weekly swims at spa
Bike - Only three (THREE!) outdoor rides. I am doomed
Run - I seemed to hold up well for 35k at Ome despite limited miles.

Ome Takamizu 35k Trail Run

I ran surprisingly well in yesterday's Ome Takamizu trail run, covering the hilly 35-kilometer course in 2:59:23 and finishing 13th out of over 900 starters. 
http://www.gem.hi-ho.ne.jp/kfc-onishi/

Twice before I had run this race.  Two years ago when the course was only 30 kilometers, I finished in 2:30.  The extra 5-kilometers added some beautiful trail sections, but made the run significantly more difficult.  I am not sure how I managed to improve on my previous effort given my recent lack of mileage in general and lack of trail running in particular. 

As usual, I intended to go out slow and enjoy feeling stronger later in the race.  But I joined my teammates near the front at the starting line and after the gun went off I quickly settled into the top 20 as we climbed the initial hill.  By about 8k I felt worn out and wondered if I was in trouble - an uphill portion of the new section was so steep that I used ropes to help pull me up. 

For almost the entire 3 hours I found myself passing a group of 6 other runners on the flat, uphill and paved sections and then watching in dismay as they simply blew by me on the steep downhill trail sections.    When we arrived at the temple at the top of Mount Takamizu I made a point of ringing the gong and admiring the scenery (as the familiar group passed me yet again).  At this point I was in 20th place.  I suffered various cramps and stomach discomfort and sore thighs and hip pain and a wrong turn, but none of these  slowed me down tremendously, and having done long triathlons I have grown more accustomed to working through various mid-race issues.  For the last 15-kilometers I concentrated on working through one section at a time, uphill, downhill, ridge, etc., and managed to pass and maintain my lead over the group around me (including the fastest woman and a 52-year old guy).  I was completely drained by the time I hit the finish.  

I was one of the few runners not carrying water.  Most other runners carried backpacks.  It was a warm Spring day, but the 6 aid stations were adequate replenishment for me.  If I could find a really small, tight water belt I would probably wear it on a day like yesterday, but am glad I did not lug my current belt which drives be crazy bouncing up and down.  I did carry 3 gels and a power bar and was diligent about eating every 30 minutes which seemed to help. 

I seem to be more competitive overall in trail races than road runs, yet within the trail races my strength relative to the other participants is overwhelmingly on the more flat, paved sections.  

Swim Squad 2: Waterboarding experience

After swim squad last night I understand why waterboarding was such an effective form of torture at Guantanamo and has outraged human rights activists.

We did one-arm swim drills and rotating, arm-by-side drills for 4x50 meters each. Soon I was inhaling water and experiencing the process of drowning, and death seemed eminent. My teammate Mary expressed concern to me when I finished each lap gasping and sputtering. "Jay - take it easy, I am getting worried about you - your face is turning blue" she kept saying.

Still I managed to recover and do the subsequent 8 x 200s in an average of 3:50, which is a big improvement for me. After the swim squad session I again felt a nice sense of accomplishment and am pretty sure that the waterboarding-like experience did not cause too much brain damage from oxygen deprivation or will lead to post-traumatic stress

Cross-training 2: Balance

I always thought I had pretty good sense of balance.  So it has been a rude shock to start yoga and find myself teetering and toppling over during balance poses, while the other yoga participants perch effortlessly on one foot like ballerinas.

So, just as I noted in my previous post on strength, I was intrigued to stumble across an article on the importance of balance, and moreover to find it contained another test to assess how I might rank against everyone else in this regard:

The test entails standing straight with arms folded across chest, raising one leg, bending the knee about 45 degrees and closing your eyes.  You measure how long you can hold this position on each foot -- a 20-49 years old should be able to stay balanced for 24 to 28 seconds. 

Alas my results were consistent with a 70-79 year old.  Apparently one's balance steadily deteriorates from one's 20s.  Perhaps running and cycling accelerates this decline?   Fortunately it is apparently easy to restore balance if you work on it a bit, so I have been trying to stand on foot each day as I brush my teeth.   Will try to follow-up on my progress in a later post.

(Follow-up note on strength - I am still stuck on about 40 push-ups)

Cross-training: Strength

I have consistently heard that strength training is valuable for triathlon/running performance (and for any one's overall health). But maintaining a regular weight training regime is a tiresome hassle for me, and apparently weight training sporadically is of no value.

So as part of my effort to do 10-minutes of "yoga" every day, I have recently started doing push-ups, and was intrigued to read this NY Times article on the value of the simple push-up. The article characterizes the push-up as the "ultimate barometer of fitness".

What really intrigued me though was the benchmark provided: the "experts" recommend that 40-year old men should be able to do 27 push-ups. Naturally I had to see if I could hit this target, and I immediately managed to struggle to 32 pushups. Since then I added one a day before hitting a wall at 41. My goal now is to work up to 50 - or even better yet, double the benchmark and manage 54.

Swim Squad

For over a year now I have procrastinated about joining swim squad - a group training session with a coach - Greg Watson.  I find swim squad grueling and painful and counter to the happy, easy triathlon training style I have pursued recently which entails relaxed, steady swims and leisurely lunch at the spa.  

Last week Greg asked me if I wanted to be taken off the swim squad mail list and I told him I would try to join the swim workout at least once this spring.  At Tamako Ekiden, yesterday my teammate Motozo mentioned he was going to swim squad in the evening and so reluctantly I decided to participate.

And it was brutal.  

3,000 meters of frenzied gasping and thrashing. Not only was this the farthest I have swam since Ironman in May 2006, it was the fastest.  In swim squad you follow the previous swimmer by 5 or 10 seconds.  I desperately tried to keep up with Mary and stay ahead of the guy behind me who kept bumping into the bottom of my feet.  We did 100-meter intervals in 2 minutes, with 10 second rest, which was bad enough.  However it was the 25 meter drills keeping our head above water and 25 meters of keeping our arms extended in front of us and just propelling ourselves by kicking that really killed me.

I felt really satisfied when the workout was over.  Greg said my stroke looked better and I was quicker than a year ago and my times were faster.

Tamako Ekiden

Seeking camaraderie in a festive spring ekiden (relay race), I traveled to lovely Lake Tama today with 20 Namban teammates for the 19th annual Tamako Ekiden. 

Coming from rain-drenched Seattle, I have never had a problem running in the rain.  The challenge today was not running in the rain, it is all the changing clothes in an open field in the cold rain and waiting around to run in the rain.  

I ran pretty well - 21:20 for the 6k course which contains two cruel U-turns followed immediately by severe uphill climbs.  I ran second on Namban's four man B team and managed to pass a dozen or so (mostly college/high school runners) while about 3-4 runners passed me.  

As far as camaraderie and team spirit, I did make an earnest effort to cheer on my mates a little bit, but I found myself spending so much of my time and energy just trying to untie my shoe laces with my frozen fingers that I missed most of teammates Paddy, Steve and Bob's heroics.

Still it was a worthwhile morning all in all, and we received an enormous souvenir "18th Tamako Ekiden" toenail clipper which I have been needing.  

Caffeine Taper 2

The weather is growing warmer and I have started to contemplate actually training for Ironman China in 5 weeks. But I have been too preoccupied with my caffeine taper to think too much about bicycling. Without enough caffeine, my mind is simply too addled and woozy to think very much about anything.

I have somehow managed to reduce my average caffeine intake from 540 mg (two 12-ounce "tall" cups of coffee per day) down to only about 150 mg per day (for example today a small 4-ounce cup of decaf/caffeinated mix in the morning and half of a cappuccino in the afternoon).

Cutting down of coffee was surprisingly easy at first - cutting my consumption in half was no problem. I even managed to fool myself with the blend of decaf and caffeinated coffee I would make. But I am no longer fooled by the dreadful tasting decaf stuff. Moreover in the week ahead I need to be reasonably sharp to deal with some looming issues at work, not to mention an upcoming Ekiden.

Ohyama Tozan Climb

I completed the grueling Ohama Tozan run/climb today - 9 kilometers from the center of a suburban Tokyo town to the top of mountain, wherein each kilometer is steeper than the last, and the last 2 kilometers are up stairs.  Believe it or not, this is one of my favorite races in Tokyo.

I have done little hill training recently, though I considered running up the emergency fire stairs at the 52-story Roppongi Hills office building and joining the token hill workout of my teammates.  Instead my plan was to push the relatively flatter first 6k and then hang on for the last 3k up the stairs (when our wave is slowed down anyway by the slower runners from the first wave). 

I think my strategy worked well for me - I went out in 3:30 for the first kilometer and then consistently passed other runners until hitting the 6k mark in 24 minutes at which point I was 8th place among the 500 participants in my division.   

My impression is that there is an "otaku" culture of hill runners who bring the exact opposite strategy to the Ohyama Tozan event - that is they live for the hill portion.  I clambered up the crowded, uneven, rocky stairs as fast as I could and felt like it would be all but impossible to cover the last three kilometers much faster than the 25 minutes it took me.  But in fact 9 runners went by me and the guy next to me at the 6k mark finished a full THREE MINUTES ahead of me.   

I am pleased with my 49:03 finish time and would follow the same strategy next time I do Ohyama unless I have moved up into the mountains by then.   The early stages of my coffee taper probably also took a small toll on my concentration towards the end.  

Caffeine Taper: Detox/Fast

With Ironman China only seven weeks away I have to focus on one thing and one thing alone - my caffeine taper. Swimming, cycling and run training are relatively trivial.

The coffee dependency has spiraled out of control in recent weeks. I knew I had hit bottom when I returned from Seattle and woke up in night with headache and had to brew some coffee in order to fall asleep.

Starting today I will begin the long, dark road back. My goal is to cut back from the 500ml of caffeine per day (five 8-ounce cups of coffee or 2.5 tall Starbucks coffees) I am drinking to zero by the end of March and sustain until the week before China IM.

Since I am cutting out coffee, I might as well cut out beer and food (most) in March as well, and totally detox and see how I feel. That part should be easier.

Tokyo Marathon 2008

I had a blast today running an "unofficial half" at the 2nd Tokyo Marathon.  For me it was a big "moving party" on a sun-splashed morning running sequentially with Stu, Rie, Yuka, Paddy, Gerard, Joachim, Martin, Bob, Steve, Brett, Omar, Yoshida-san,  Christian roughly in that order.

I am delighted with my times given my erratic pace and the dodging and weaving past the "A" group throughout all of the first 4 kilometer.  Here are my rough 5k splits:
 5k -  21:10
10k - 18:45
15k - 18:16
20k - 18:41
Half - 1:20:35

I felt rather sheepish about only doing half of the real event.   I kept wanting to apologize to the other runners and the spectators cheering so emphatically for the gaijin.  "Sumimasen - I am really not running 2:41 marathon pace - don't be impressed."  One of the biggest challenges was dropping out at the halfway area in Ginza where some of the largest crowds gather and the spectators seemed so enthusiastic in their "Gambatter Namban" cheers.  I was relieved to spot Mutsumi and suddenly have an excuse to stop.  Naturally a part of me wanted to keep going, but I didn't have the endurance in me today to go much farther today.  

Why did I give up at the halfway mark?  I have so many excuses, I don't know where to begin.  My soft, suburban US upbringing?  My 38k average per week training?  The inconvenience of the Odaiba finish? The lack of scenery from the 30k mark out through the Tokyo Bay industrial wasteland?  Fear of being beaten by Rie?   My general anti-marathon running philosophy?   The fact I needed to catch a 1:30PM bus to Narita Airport from central Tokyo?

Winter running mileage

Here is my recent running mileage: 

Midlife Training Crisis

The Yoga Master keeps warning me about the cumulative effect of running.  Given my earlier injuries, inherent inflexibility and some 50,000 kilometers of running over 25 years,  some would argue that I am facing a looming running breakdown, after which I will be forced to live out my days in a rocking chair in front of the fireplace, talking incessantly about how great I did chasing Motozo down at the 2006 Sado Triathlon.  

Here is the Yoga Master's response to my question about the body being like an automobile - capable of only so many running miles:

About your concern that you've already expended your allotment of miles at age 44: this is my basic thinking on such matters:

* Every body is different
* Hard exercise takes a cumulative toll on the human body
* To a degree, the body is regenerative
* The regenerative capacity of the human body declines with age
* An exercise program with diversity, including strength, cardio and flexibility training, is best

It's common sense, not rocket science. If a 40ish runner is too stiff to bend over and tie his shoes without creaking in the hips and knees, his overall quality of life at 60 is going to be worse, not better, unless he makes changes in his program.

I like to think that my body is quite regenerative and has adapted to running, especially given how light I am.  Nonetheless this kindof thinking has contributed to my cutting out my "marginal running"  -- those extra weekly maintenance runs, and extra mileage on tempo and long runs - extra running which I did not particularly enjoy anyway. I look forward to my first 5k loop of the Tokyo Palace, but why slog out another one if it is just destroying me.   So instead of 80 kilometers per week, I am doing 30-40k per week along with more swim, indoor cycling and yoga.  

Unfortunately this attitude is rather de-motivating.  I miss the sense of purpose and progress that accompanied my more hell-bent training regimes.

Bike: Short Layoff, Long Comeback

After the Suzu Triathlon last August I completely stopped cycling.  23
weeks of zero cycling - ending today with 60 minutes on my indoor trainer.

I had hoped that 40k per week of running along with my weekly swims
would allow me to maintain most of my cycling strength, but I felt
like was operating on maybe 30% of last August's level.  According to
this recent NYT  article "if you want to keep your ability to row, or
run, or swim, you have to do that exact activity".   Running is not enough, runners propel
themselves by calves and ankles, while cyclists primarily use
quadriceps.

The exercise physiologists suggest that it would not have taken much
time to maintain my cycling fitness - the key is to substitute
intensity of effort for time: "the training needs to be almost like
racing".  Next winter I will try to do one intense hour per
week.

For now though, with Ironman China only 10 weeks away,  I need to
start doing much more specific (bike) training.

2007 Triathlon Spending

2007 was another bad year for my net worth. 

So again I am trying to figure out where all the money went by analyzing my spending versus the anecdotal reports on the Slowtwitch Forum
 

1. Bike (amortized) -  Jay $250     Average $2,000
Other triathletes buy $6,000 bikes every few years but I am making due with my rusty, generic bike for a third triathlon campaign despite the scorn and derision of my teammates.  My racing bike also doubles as my shopping bike so it needs to be rugged to deal with the milk and the chickens I load on it.

2. Bike Equipment - Jay $400     Average $3,500
In 2007 I overhauled my old bike which I left in Seattle, and spent $100 on tubes and lube and cables and new pump.
I still have almost no possessions anyway (of any sort).   I still live in a serviced apartment and all my worldly goods can fit in a small car (not that I own a car).  I still don't know where some of the bike stuff I do own is - presumably in that cardboard box somewhere.

3. Running Shoes -  Jay $190     Average $350
In 2007 I was loyal to Asics, acquiring an outdated pair of Kayanos for $90, a $100 pair Tarthers and a free pair 2120s.  I keep running far too much on each pair of shoes - over 800 kilometers per pair, so my running shoe spending remains low.


4. Triathlon Apparel -  Jay $100     Average $400
I am supposed to BUY triathlon apparel??   I did spend $90 on the wonderful compression tights. 

5. Coach / personal trainers / massage therapy - Jay $ 0    Average - $700
I wish.  

6. Gel, Power Bars -  Jay $200     Average $300
I have started trying to eat more "food" and less "foodlike substances" like expensive Power Bars with their puzzling concoction of  Maltodextrin, fructose, glycerin, phosphoric acid..

7. Swimming:  Health Club / Masters Swim Fee -  Jay $340    Average $400
My spa membership was free most of the year and I kept procrastinating about joining the swim squad.  I incurred an occasional 400-yen use fee at the 50-meter public pool and purchased new swim goggles.

9. Triathlon /running event entry fees: Jay $900    Average $1,000
I did not do any notoriously expensive full Ironman events in 2007.  The $100 entry fee for Tokyo Marathon seems relatively cheap. 

10. Triathlon-related Travel:  Jay - $4,500     Average  $2,000
Lake Stevens was a good excuse to visit Seattle.  Mongolia was wonderful. So was HK, Suzu, Shiobara, and Stone Wonderland.


2008 is looking even more expensive.   Especially if I do the half-ironman in Switzerland -- Zurich is hardly an affordable destination.  Melbourne is not exactly cheap either. And my real dream - the Bhutan Half-Marathon.  Of course I have always wanted to go to Bhutan, but the Bhutan government limits the number of tourists and keeps travel prices high.

Training in Vietnam

I enjoy a fine winter holiday journey to "Vietnam"  Nothing really went according to plan - most significantly I did not actually make it to Vietnam - somehow the prospect of boarding a 20-hour, overnight bus packed with locals spitting and snoring and shouting on mobile phones was just too daunting for me.

Instead I landed in some obscure Chinese city -- Xiamen -- where it seems that few westerners visit - who besides me would travel to China for European colonial atmosphere?  The attraction for running - a car-free island!  This island, Xiamen's historical area of  Gulangyu, has become somewhat Disneyified - but I did not have a problem with that - it all still seemed authentic enough, and and the paths through the hills and along the waterfront were perfect for hours of running/sightseeing.   A Xiamen bonus - even better running was to be found in the center of the town - after dark even.  I went on a night run through Xiamen's version of NYC's Central Park - an endless network of wide trails alongside a series of lakes that reflected the city's colorful, neon-lit skyscrapers.  For some third-tier Chinese city it was spectacular.  No doubt this is the running mecca of Xiamen.  Not that I ever actually saw any other runners, and I may very well have been the first person to ever run on these paths.  I am sure however if I came back in 10 years the trails will be packed with Xiamenites doing long runs and interval workouts.

Next I journey to another car-free island and training destination - Hong Kong's Lamma Island. 

My training suffers a bit -- even my wimpy, compromised travel journey is fatiguing.   From Xiamen I do end up on a sleeper bus - however it is a 7-hour ride departing at 1:00 in the afternoon, and I am not sleepy, and I am assigned to a horrible middle bunk.  I plead with a young man in the back rear window seat to trade with me and I am ready to offer him 50 RMB for the exchange, but once he understands my request he smiles and quickly moves before I can offer him cash.  People pay thousands of dollars extra to lie flat on airplane flights but on this trip I want to prop myself up and look out at the rolling Chinese countryside.  I overnight in Shenzhen in a lovely, spacious 1-bedroom suite.  Based on the strange decor and all the odd accouterments stocked in the bathroom I presume the hotel caters to HK businessmen and their Chinese mistresses.  Accommodations on Lamma Island are less luxurious, but no less interesting.  The key to the apartment where we were to stay does not materialize and by around 11pm with all the hotels on the island full and the last ferry having left we start to grow concerned.  We strike up a conversation with a local artist woman who takes pity on us and allows us to stay with her and her 5 children in a fantastic waterfront home where she is squatting as she tries to convert the place into a "cultural center".  Granted the house has no running water, no lights, no covering on the windows... But the candles, the sound of the ocean, the artwork and the crumbling building create an amazing atmosphere.

I participate in Hong Kong's annual Boxing Day Run.   Great weather, great organization, great course.  Unfortunately the Boxing Day Run is only 4k, and I only start to wake up at about the 3k mark.  Well, really I only wake up after the event when we go to The Flying Pan for American breakfast accompanied by bottomless cups of coffee.  There is much to be said for the beer and pasta we enjoy after every event in Japan, but when it is still only noon I strongly prefer the breakfast food I grew up with - and the coffee.
 

Later I journey to the city of Yangshuo, formerly a great backpacker destination, which apparently is now hopelessly overtouristed and passe.  But again I don't find this terribly troubling.   I manage to get on a mountain bike and it does not take long to escape the hordes of (overwhelmingly Chinese) tourists.  At the end of 70-kilometers of cycling through quiet rice fields and karst mountains and remote villages I am pleased to return to all the tourist infrastructure - particularly the lovely coffee shops.